Between two airbrush colors, wipe your palette with a damp cloth, and if needed a degreaser or a bit of airbrush cleaner, to get a clean surface back.

Even without intermediate cleaning after each paint (which I never do), the accumulated paint dries on the surface — and that’s where the magic happens.

1. Clear the palette of anything unnecessary so you have an empty slab.
2. Spray your airbrush cleaner (or a degreasing spray such as Chanteclair or AK spray) over the whole palette. Let it sit for a few minutes if needed: the dissolving time depends on the thickness of the paint. For airbrush micro-dust, a few seconds are enough; for a dried drop, let it sit longer.
3. Wipe with a microfiber cloth: almost all the stains come off instantly. Repeat if necessary.
4. If a few halos remain (pigment-heavy contrast paints, fluo inks), don’t panic: use the magic eraser sponge included with the palette (any magic eraser sponge will do, but never an abrasive sponge, at the risk of polishing the surface). Rub the area to remove the last residues.
5. The color of the palette is designed to leave almost no trace; for a perfect finish, then wipe with a clean microfiber cloth dampened with hot water.

1. Never use an abrasive product or tool. The surface has a non-uniform microscopic texture, which is what makes it so effective against glare. An abrasive (green sponge, micro-grain product) does not scratch it but polishes it: it would end up glossy. Prefer a soft microfiber cloth with a good degreaser (Chanteclair, Marseille soap spray, airbrush thinner or cleaner, remover…).
2. No high-impact work on it. The palette withstands shocks very well, but it is not made for carpentry (hammer, wood chisels…). It is heat-repairable, but if a piece breaks off after an impact, it cannot be recovered.
3. Protect it to guarantee its lifespan. For harder jobs (drilling bases, epoxy resin…), avoid using the palette or protect it: a small silicone mat for epoxy resin, a cutting mat for drilling a base.